Anna’s Cape (Frozen) ~ Free Crochet Pattern

Yes, you read that right. I am in no way done with crocheted items from Frozen yet! But don’t worry, the following pattern will work for any Barbie outfit, not just Anna’s. I do love a nice Barbie cape.

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The above pictures are washed out and not true to color so I’m sorry about that. :)

Materials

  • Small amount of bulky (6) yarn (I don’t know the exact yardage but I would guess < 30 yards)
  • Size J (6.00 MM) hook
  • Yarn needle
  • Button
  • Needle & thread

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I just love this button! My mother kindly let me raid her button stash. :) This one went perfectly with the color, and it’s fine to have a super-fancy button on a cape, because it can be the main focus.

Abbreviations

I use US crochet terms in all of my patterns. The below chart might help you with this: US to UK Terminology

Also, I used 1 extended double crochet in this pattern. This is how you do it: Yo, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 1 loop (a chain), *yo, pull through 2 loops* 2 x.

This was the hardest garment to replicate! As you can see from the pictures below, it’s hard to get a picture of the whole cape to see what shape it is. It wasn’t until I examined the cape of an Anna barbie that I realized, the main body is just a large circle. The top was a bit trickier, but if you have something to model it off of, it’s much easier.

Body of Cape

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 2 (does not count as a stitch for this first round only.) (If you don’t want to make a magic ring, or you don’t know how to, chain 4, join w/ a sl st to form a ring instead.) Make 12 dc into the ring, sl st to top of first dc to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as a stitch from now on), dc in same st, 2dc in each of next 11 sts, sl st to ch 2 to join.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 11x, sl st to join.

Rnd 4: Repeat Round 3. (NOTE: My cape is a little bit ruffly, so if you wanted to go on increasing normally, that would be fine. Otherwise, continue as written.)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st (dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 11x, sl st to join.

Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, (dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 11x, sl st to join.

Rnd 7: (Edging) Ch 1, turn, LOOSELY slip stitch in each front loop around, sl st to 1st sl st to join, f/o and weave in ends.

~

Middle of Top Part

Sorry for the convoluted name there. The top of the cape is made up of three parts, one isosceles trapezoid and two semicircles. This is the trapezoid part.

Row 1: Ch 6, dc in 3rd ch from hk, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in last st. (You’ve increased on both ends.)

Row 2-4: Ch 2, turn (counts as a stitch), dc in same st, dc across to last st, 2dc in last st.

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, make 1 stitch in each stitch across as follows (no increasing): sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, extended dc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc. F/o and weave in ends.

~

Semicircles (make 2)

Make a magic ring, ch 2 (does not count as as stitch.) 6 dc into ring.

Row 2: Ch 2, turn, dc into same st, 2 dc into each of next 5 sts. (12) f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew each of the semicircles to the sides of the trapezoid.

~

Collar

This is the part that goes around the neck. I actually sewed the button to the semicircles, not the collar, which I thought I should mention so no confusion happens.

Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across.

Ch 1, turn, sl st in each st across.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Set the collar aside for now while we assemble.

~

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Assembly

Find a long tail from one of your pieces, and sew the top part of the cape to the cape circle. The semicircles should be left free, so just sew on the SHORTER side of the isosceles trapezoid – the non-curved side. Am I making sense? The above picture might help…let me know if you need more explanation. Once you’ve done that, you can sew the collar on top. Weave in all of your ends.

Put the cape on your Barbie and figure out where you want the button. I used a dc from the semicircle as a buttonhole, but you can make a separate chain loop if you’d like.

If your cape is really curly, you could block it, or throw it in the washing machine if you used acrylic yarn (the dryer kills the acrylic.) Otherwise, you’re done!

~

Thank you all for voting in the poll in my sidebar. Accessories won out, but Barbie Outfits was pretty close. I have a cowl pattern coming soon, I just need to take some pictures. The thing I most enjoy crocheting is Barbie dresses, though, so there will definitely be more of those coming. Just a warning…this isn’t the last you will see of things from Frozen. :) (If you want to check out the patterns I’ve made from Frozen, there’s a link at the bottom of the sidebar.)

Have a fabulous day!

Blog Ender

DIY Elsa’s Ice Castle Tutorial

If you went to see Frozen, you’ll probably agree that Elsa’s ice castle is totally amazing. But on Amazon, the ‘Ice Palace Playset’ is $160 when I last looked (not to mention shipping), which is a lot of money if your kids (or yourself) want one.

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So I enlisted the help of my dad and sister, and we did what any crafter would do in this situation ~ we made our own!

(Click to enlarge the pictures.)

I mean, it doesn’t look exactly like Elsa’s ice castle. It’s made out of cardboard boxes, you know. But maybe you took a kid to see the movie and now they want an ice castle, and you don’t want to drop a bunch of money for it. Or maybe you’re just in the mood for some serious crafting. Whatever the cause, if you want to make your own, directions follow. :)

Materials

We got our stuff from Lowe’s for under 20 dollars. But we bought some things we didn’t end up using (like, we thought we were going to use dowels, but we didn’t.) If you can find a box in your basement like we did, or if you already have spray paint of an appropriate color, then 10 dollars might be more accurate. The spray paint is the most expensive part.

  • 12 x 12 x 12 cardboard box
  • 16 x 12 x 12 cardboard box
  • Optional box if you want an attic*
  • Packing tape
  • Light blue spray paint for main color (ours is sort of icy-blue)
  • Sparkly silver spray paint for overlay
  • 8 in. x 10 in. sheet of Plexiglass
  • Scissors
  • Hot glue
  • Worsted weight yarn & J hook if you’re making a snowflake
  • Elsa Barbie (optional)

*No directions are included for the attic because it’s so easy! Just get one of those mini piano box looking things and cut a triangular hole in it. :)

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Naturally, we’re going to start at the first floor and work upwards. But now you’ll know how they come together.

First Floor

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Start off with your 12 x 12 x 12 cardboard box. This box was rooted out of the basement so it’s a bit bedraggled. You may need to assemble yours firstly, leave the top open like above.

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Then cut down one side seam.

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And unfold it so it sort of looks like a pentagon. I know it still only has four sides, but pretend the fifth one is there. Make sure the left and right sides are parallel.

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Then you need to use packing tape to tape the bottom together. Next, fold down the top flaps and tape those together too.

~

Second Floor

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Take your 16 x 12 x 12 box and assemble it as normal. Then cut off all four top flaps.

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Two of the flaps should be 12 inches/1 foot long. Tape them as support beams on either side of your bottom floor/pentagon looking item. You can dispose of the other flaps if you like, but I’d keep them on hand in case you need spare cardboard.

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Just tape on all 4 sides as sturdily as you can.

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The poodle wanted to get in on the action, but when I tried to get a good picture of her, all she wanted to do was lick the camera…the same poodle from this post, as a matter of fact ~ she seems to be interested in crafting! Anyway. Back on track now…

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Then pop the box on top of the first floor, so it’s in line with the front. This forms a bit of a balcony in the back …

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…like this…this picture might help for reference…

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Place the Plexiglass in the second floor, in line with the front edge. Keep in mind, it has to be supported by the first-floor-edges, or it will plummet right to the ground. Trace around it and cut out the resulting rectangle from the second story box you just finished.

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Then you can put the Plexiglass on top and marvel at it.

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But first you should peel off the covering, which is really quite fun and I had to take a picture of it. :)

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To let some light in, my dad, who was in charge of the sharp stuff, cut out windows. Our method was this: you draw the shape of the window as you’d like, then trace around it, and draw a line down the middle. Then when you cut it out, you can leave some cardboard on the side, and if you score it, the windows can open and close.

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Like so.

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Now we have to attach the first and second floors together. Put the second floor where you want it, so it’s aligned with the front edge and centered, then trace around the edge as shown. This way you know where NOT to glue. (Yes, that’s my hand, but no, I am not left-handed. Photo purposes. :) )

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Also, you should trace from the first floor looking up, so you know the other place not to glue. I realize you can’t see anything in that picture…

Then, apply hot glue to the non-marked parts, as quickly but efficiently as you can. Then squish it into place, and hold it together for a minute or so, so it will hold. But I beg you to be careful with the hot glue…

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The next step is to secure the Plexiglass, but we were running into a problem. If you glue it down, you can’t remove it to spray-paint it, and it was a really rainy day so spray-painting was out of the question. So we cut two long, narrow strips of cardboard and glued it so there was a little gap for the Plexiglass to go into, kind of like a drawer. Then it can pull in and out and your Barbie can have vaulted ceilings if she wants, but she can switch to a two-story house easily.

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For those of you who can crochet and want a large snowflake for Elsa, here’s what I did. This is the closest pattern I could find to the snowflake that starts the ice palace, have a look at the before and after in Let it Go:

I used Snowcatcher’s Bicycle Spokes Snowflake with Red Heart Super Saver yarn and a J (6.00 MM) hook. It turned out 8.5 inches point to point. I did make a slight modification on the last round: instead of chaining 8 in-between petals, I chained 9, slip stitched into the 8th chain from the hook, chained 1, and proceeded on, which made it look more like an oversized picot and therefore resemble Elsa’s more. I mean, it is a crocheted snowflake so you can only get so close, but…can you say obsession? ;)

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Okay, so this is how the ice palace looks at this point…it kind of looks like a bunch of cardboard boxes, right? (oh look, there’s a poodle in the background! XD ) Don’t worry, a bit of spray paint is going to make a huuuuuge difference.

Follow the directions on your spray paint container ~ ours said to spray paint on a day over 65º, and naturally it shouldn’t be a rainy day. It would be more effective if you waited to glue it all together, but this worked fine for us. Spray paint a coat of blue paint. Two coats would be good since you want this to look professional, right? Well, as professional as a bunch of Lowe’s boxes can look, anyway… :) Then add a coat of sparkle spray paint to make it look icier. I highly suggest doing the inside too because otherwise it will just be cardboard inside, and the entire castle is made of ice…as Anna found out the hard way. Then let it dry…let it dry…congratulations if you got that reference…here’s something for you to watch while you do so…

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We ran out of spray paint for the back, so you may want to go lighter so you have enough. Or just don’t spray paint the attic. When you’re done you can put the Plexiglass back in, re-glue if you need to, and then your cardboard ice castle is complete! Pretty good for some common materials! And, if you’re careful, it’s actually quite sturdy. Everybody say, “Thank you, Cogaroo’s dad and sister!” Because they were SUPER AWESOME and I totally wouldn’t have been able to do this on my own. You guys rock, thank you! :D

If you make an ice castle, do let me know how you get along, I’d love to see pictures! I think adding a chandelier would be awesome…or you could add doors, we left the front open for easy access…or railings around the balcony…there are lots of things you can customize to make it however you’d like.

Now I am going to make my dramatic exit like at the end of Let it Go. See you later! :)

~

P.S. Want to do some more Frozen crafting? Check out the free pattern for Elsa’s Coronation Dress! 

Happy Blob ~ An Amigurumi Pattern For The Absolute Beginner!

I’m teaching a couple of girls to crochet, and I wanted to introduce them to the wonderful world of amigurumi. Therefore I present to you the Happy Blob, the lamest excuse for a pattern there ever was. :) However, it is ideal for the absolute beginner (provided they know the single crochet), and that’s what I needed. So if you want a super easy project, or if you just want to add a few blobs to your ami collection, read on.

I realize this is similar to my Fuzzy Blob pattern (the one inspired by ea1701), but this one is far easier. It’s just a crocheted sphere. And while I don’t claim to have invented either crochet or the sphere, I did coin this particular pattern…please don’t get mad if you find a similar one. :)

Depending on your yarn + hook choice, your blob can turn out very different sizes. I made the four above using the same pattern! From left to right: bulky yarn & J (6 MM) hook, worsted weight yarn & I (5.5 MM) hook, worsted weight yarn & G (4 MM) hook, size 10 crochet thread & 2.1 MM hook. I originally did the size G hook with worsted weight yarn since that’s what I use in almost all of my patterns. (Click to enlarge the picture.)

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Super-Shorthand Pattern (for the crochet experts)

Start with 6 sc in a ring and increase evenly for three more rounds, ending up w/ 24 sts. Do 3 rounds of plain sc. Then decrease evenly until you have 6 sts left. Stuff, finish, weave in ends.

Shorthand Pattern 

Chain 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (Alternatively you can use a magic ring, but I wouldn’t advise that if you are just starting out.)

Round 2: *2 sc in next st* 6x. (12)

Round 3: *sc 1, 2sc in next st* 6x (18)

Round 4: *sc 2, 2sc in next st* 6x (24)

Rounds 5, 6, & 7: sc evenly around (24)

Round 8: *sc 2, sc2tog* 6x (18)

Round 9: *sc 1, sc2tog* 6x (12)

Round 10: *sc2tog* 6x (6)

Sl st in next st, fasten off, stuff and weave in ends. I left my blobs as just blobs with no faces but you could add googly eyes if you like…

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PDF Version

If you want your pattern in a really simplified format, with no abbreviations, and explanations of sc2tog and stitch markers, here’s the PDF version I made for my crochet lessons. Click the name to download:

Happy Blob

Have fun crocheting blobs! This is great if you have somebody who wants to make amigurumi but isn’t ready to tackle a giant project yet. But be warned…they multiply like rabbits. Or those Tribble things in Star Wars. Duh…I typed the wrong Star thing…eidiliat reminded me it’s Star TREK. :)

~

Also wanted to say…thanks for your wonderful response to Hildegard! I really appreciate all of your comments!

Hildegard, The Life-Sized Crochet Chicken ~ Free Pattern!

It’s finally here!

I first posted about Hildegard, the Ultimate Crochet Chicken, at the end of January (click here to see the post)… Wow, it has been a while! I did promise that I would give you the pattern, but I must say it has been a good deal of work, partially because I hand-wrote the pattern and I lost the notebook, but when I finally found it, I couldn’t really tell what I’d written. After much deciphering, at last I have written it out for you.

You can click on any of the pictures to enlarge them. Please refer back to them if you have trouble with placement.

Hildegard, the Life-Sized Crochet Chicken

Materials

  •  1 skein of worsted-weight yarn in desired hen color, I used I Love This Yarn in white for a Plymouth White Rock. My skein had something like 350 yards, but I did start with a partial skein and had enough. I would think that 1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver would be plenty, provided you don’t crochet too loosely. At $3.19 when I last went to Joann’s, you won’t be spending too much that way.
  • Small amount of red worsted-weight yarn for facial details (comb, wattles, etc.)
  • Yellow worsted-weight yarn for the feet & legs.
  • I used less than a yard of black yarn to embroider on the beak, this is entirely up to you.
  • Plentiful stuffing (I used fiberfill). You could put poly-pellets in the legs if you wanted to weight your hen a bit. Also, you could put pipe cleaners in the legs to make them poseable, but Hildegard is unable to stand up on her own because she’s so top-heavy. I left the legs un-stuffed so she would be more child-friendly and snuggly.
  • Safety eyes (sorry, I don’t know what millimeter size I used, but they were pretty small.) You could use buttons, but I found that safety eyes made for a more realistic face.
  • Scissors, yarn needle, stitch marker (yarn scraps work well), row counter (or another way to keep track of your rows ~ click here for an online row counter)
  • 1-2 sheets of craft felt if you choose to line the wings. I used 1 sheet, but it didn’t have quite enough for both wings. I had no choice though, since that was all the white craft felt I had! It was just a few centimeters too short on either side. So if you want to be thrifty, you could probably eke it out, but felt isn’t too expensive anyway. :)
  • Sewing needle & thread if you choose to line the wings (to attach the felt mentioned above.)

I would definitely rate this an INTERMEDIATE project. There’s a lot of shaping, and you’ll have to work from a chart to make the wings, since I can’t type it out at this time. I am more than happy to help you on the road to crocheting a life-size chicken, but unless you have thoroughly learned the basics of crochet and made an amigurumi before this, it’s likely that you’ll have more trouble.

Suggested Main Colors

I mentioned that white was my main color, but you could really do any kind of hen. Here are some that I suggest.

Plymouth White Rock – White (this is what I used)
Barred Rock – Variegated Black & White*
Rhode Island Red – Darkish Red
Partridge Rock – Medium-Brown
Buff Orpington – Tan
Black Australorp – Black (sparkly would look fabulous)
*you could hold 2 strands together, 1 black + 1 white, of a lighter weight yarn if you can’t find variegated.

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Notes

If the pattern says to *sc 1, inc* 6x, that means to repeat the sequence between the *s six times.

If the pattern says to “sc 12″, that means to do 1 sc in each of the next 12 stitches. (I abbreviated it to save space.)

Inc = increase (work 2 of the indicated stitches in the same st: for example, if you were instructed to do *6 hdc, inc*, you would increase using hdc. Stay in the established stitch pattern.)

Dec = decrease = single crochet 2 together (sc2tog)

There’s a lot of complicated shaping in the head, so read the pattern carefully; don’t worry if it’s looking strange, for it will look better after a few more rounds. :)

This pattern is mostly worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise indicated. Do not join rounds; just keep crocheting happily around, using a stitch marker to mark the first stitch so you don’t get lost.

I am all for using a Magic Ring, I truly am. But for the earlobes, comb, wattles, and other parts of the face, I have written to use a slipknot + chain instead. The hole is part of the design, and if you’re using safety eyes, for the red parts around the eyes you need to not use a magic ring, or you won’t be able to insert them later on. But for the parts that do use a Magic Ring, here’s my tutorial on the subject.

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Stitches Used

I use US crochet terms, here’s a list of the abbreviations of the basic stitches, translated from US – UK.

US to UK Terminology

There are some additional stitches used in this pattern. Inc and Dec are described in Notes above this.

Sc2tog: Pull up a loop in the next 2 sts (3 loops). Yo, pull through all 3.

Hdc2tog: Yo, ins hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop. Insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook.) Yo, pull through all 4 loops. (This is a slightly different way to do the decrease; it reduces bulk.)

Front loop slip stitch is used for the toes. Mrs Micawber has a great tutorial here, she does it with a dishcloth, but the stitch is the same. The tutorial is actually where I learned it in the first place. :)

Linked double crochet (ldc) is used to gain height without creating a holey fabric. Here’s how you do it: Insert the hook into the horizontal bar of the previous stitch. Yo, pull up a loop. Pull up a loop in the next stitch. *Yo, pull through 2* 2x. Please refer to this tutorial at Moogly if you need more help. We won’t be doing it in rows, though, just in a spiral, so don’t worry about turning.

Linked triple crochet (ltr) is also used to gain height, on the last round of the body. It’s very similar to the ldc, except with an extra yarn over (with a linked stitch, the yarn over turns into “insert hook into horizontal bar of previous stitch, pull up a loop”, but you get the picture.)

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Earlobes

Ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in same ch, FO.

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Red Things Around Eyes

Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, 6 dc in last ch (which will take you around to the other side), working on other side of chain, hdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st to 1st sc and FO.

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Wattles

Row 1: In a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as a stitch), 3 dc.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, *hdc2tog* 2x.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, FO.

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Beak

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnds 2-4: sc in each st around

Rnd 5: *sc 1, inc* 3x, FO

I divided some black yarn into 2 plies, and embroidered the line around the beak that you see in the pictures, and I also added nostrils.

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Comb

Row 1: Ch 9, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 chs

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st, *inc* 6x, sk next st, sl st in last st, FO

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Head

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around

Rnd 3: *sc 1, inc* 6x

Rnd 4: *sc 2, inc* 6x

Rnd 5: *sc 3, inc* 6x

Rnd 6: *sc 4, inc* 3x, *sc 3, dec* 3x

Rnd 7: sc in each st around

Rnd 8: *sc 8, inc* 3x, sc 12 — (mark the middle of the 12 scs as the front of the head)

Rnd 9: *sc 4, inc* 4x, sc 12

Rnd 10: sc 24, *sc 1, dec* 4x

Rnd 11: sc 24, *dec* 4x

Rnd 12-15: sc in each st around (28 sts)

Rnd 16: sc 6, *sc 3, inc* 4x, sc 6

Rnd 17: *inc, sc 2* 2x, *sc 4, inc* 4x, *sc 2, inc* 2x

Rnd 18: sc 7, *sc 5, inc* 4x, sc 9

At this point, I did the face. First of all, pin the red things around eyes into place. The below picture will help you with placement. Also, you can return to the top of the post and click to enlarge the pictures that show a close-up of Hildegard’s face, if you want to see the crochet version.

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Then insert the safety eyes through the hole at the bottom of the end dc’s, attach the eyes, then use the long tail to sew the red things around eyes onto the face.

Sew the beak on next. Then that will help you place the wattles. They do face kind of sideways, so don’t just sew them on flat. You’ll end up mostly just sewing the top, not the sides, so they stick out.

Next, attach the earlobes, next to and slightly below the eyes, again, please refer to the lovely Clementine for placement.

My sister helped me place the comb, I was putting it too far back on the head. It nearly touches the beak.

You can leave the ends dangling on the inside as long as they’re securely knotted/tied off. Then we can proceed with the last bit of the head:

Rnd 19: *sc 1, inc* 3x, sc 7, *sc 2, inc* 5x, sc 9, *sc 1, inc* 2x, sc 2

Rnd 20-24: sc in each st around

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

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Tail

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around

Rnd 3: *sc 3, inc* 3x

Rnd 4: *sc 4, inc* 3x

Rnd 5: *sc 5, inc* 3x

Rnd 6: *sc 6, inc* 3x

Rnd 7: *sc 7, inc* 3x

Rnd 8: *sc 8, inc* 3x

Rnd 9: sc in each st around

Rnd 10: *sc 9, inc* 3x

Rnd 11: sc in each st around

Rnd 12: *sc 10, inc* 3x

Rnd 13: sc in each st around

You can probably tell the pattern now, it’s one round of increases and one round of plain sc, alternating until round 23.

Rnd 14: *sc 11, inc* 3x

Rnd 15: sc in each st around

Rnd 16: *sc 12, inc* 3x

Rnd 17: sc in each st around

Rnd 18: *sc 13, inc* 3x

Rnd 19: sc in each st around

Rnd 20: *sc 14, inc* 3x

Rnd 21: sc in each st around

Rnd 22: *sc 15, inc* 3x

Rnd 23: sc in each st around

sl st in next st, FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

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Feet

Each foot is made up of 2 short toes and 1 long toe in the middle. Then you crochet them together and make the rest of the foot, all at once. Finally, you add the leg.

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Short Toe (make 4)

(the short toe has 7 rows)

Row 1: ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in rest of the chains (4 sl st)

Rows 2-7: ch 1, turn, sl st in front loops only in each st across (4 sl st)

At end of last row, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Roll the toe into a tube so the sides of the rows match and whipstitch it together, then weave in all the ends.

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Long Toe (make 2) 

(the long toe has 8 rows)

Row 1: ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in rest of the chains (4 sl st)

Rows 2-8: ch 1, turn, sl st in front loops only in each st across (4 sl st)

At end of last row, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Roll the toe into a tube so the sides of the rows match and whipstitch it together, then weave in all the ends.

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Joining & Rest of Foot

Rnd 1: sc 2 on a short toe, sc 2 on a long toe, sc 2 on a short toe.

Turn it around so you can go across the other side.

sc 2 on the previous short toe, sc 2 on the middle (long) toe, sc 2 on the last toe.

Rnds 2-4: sc in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 5: *sc 1, dec* 4x

Rnds 6-7: sc in each st around

Rnd 8: *dec* 4x, FO.

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Leg

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnd 2: *sc 1, inc* 3x (9 sts)

Rnd 3-10: sc in each st around

sl st in next st, FO, leaving a long tail for sewing, sew the last round of the leg onto the foot.

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Pantaloons

(it’s the feathery part that goes over the leg.)

Crochet 12 stitches on the 2nd row of the leg, picking them up so you don’t have to sew it on later.

OR -~- (if you don’t feel comfortable with that)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

EITHER WAY, round 3 is the same -~-

Rnd 3: *sc 1, inc* around

Rnd 4: sc in each st around

Rnd 5: *sc 5, inc* around

Rnd 6: sc in each st around

Rnd 7: *sc 6, inc* around

Rnd 8-10: sc in each st around

sl st in next st, fo, leave a long tail for sewing on one leg

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Joining The Legs

Sew together 8 stitches from each leg, on the inside. Now you can crochet in the remaining stitches.

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Join the yarn to the first stitch on the left leg. Sc in each stitch around. (Sorry for the lack of stitch counts. It’s not critical that you have the same amount of stitches as me. But it’s a lo-o-ong way around, especially later in the body, so I didn’t want to stop and count. Feel free to modify to your heart’s content if you’re having difficulties with stitch counts.)

2: *sc 2, inc* around, to last 2 stitches, *inc* 2x.

3-5: sc around

6: *sc 5, inc* around

7-14: sc around

15: *sc 6, inc* around

16-19: sc around

20: *sc 7, inc* around

21: sc around

22: *sc 8, inc* around

23: sc around

At this point I began to fear that the end would never approach, and I was running out of yarn at a scary pace (I started with a partial ball.) So I switched to a slightly taller stitch. You will also see the linked double crochet make an appearance later in the pattern, to gain height for shaping.

24: hdc around

25: *hdc 4, inc* around

26: *hdc 5, inc* around

27: 20 ldc, hdc to last 10 sts, 10 ldc.

28: *4 ldc, (2ldc) in next st*

29: Ltrc in all of the ldc’s from the previous round. Then make 1 ltrc in the next stitch. Hdc to the end.

30: *hdc 4, hdc2tog* to last 5 stitches, hdc in all 5.

31: *hdc 3, hdc2tog* around.

I would highly suggest stuffing before you do this next round. You can always top it off after. It just makes things a bit easier.

32: SKIP the next 30 stitches and slip stitch in the next stitch. This forms the head and tail holes. Stop right there; do not finish the round, proceed to:

33: Hdc in each of the 30 stitches that you just skipped.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing, weaving, and fixing gaping holes.

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Wings

Instead of taking notes, I drew a chart for the wings, which was much easier for me but probably harder for you, I apologize. It’s easier to get a scheme of where the stitches go, though. The wing is made up of double crochet V stitches. Basically, you make 2 dc in the same st. Then when you go back across that row, you make the 2 dc in between the 2-dc of the previous row. This makes the wings look lacier, and mimics feathers without having to make a gazillion things to sew on.

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Follow the above chart for both wings, but the border will be slightly different for each one. For the Right Wing, ch 2, continue crocheting around the wing, working into the SIDES of the rows. 2 dc in each space. Work 5 dc in the corners and continue along the bottom and up the side that’s numbered in the chart above. Then go across the last row, then slip stitch to the first dc.

For the Left Wing, chain 2, TURN, 2dc in each space along the previous row, 5dc in the corner, continue along the numbered side with 2dc in each space. 5dc in the corners, repeat around as for the right wing, ending with sl st in first dc.

If you want to line the wings, trace them on craft felt and cut it out slightly smaller than the wing so it will pull in just a little bit. Then the felt won’t be able to be seen from the outside. Use your sewing needle and thread and sew the felt to the underside of both wings. I highly suggest lining them because it keeps them from stretching out, and makes the wings a bit sturdier.

We will use a yarn tail to sew the wing to the body, it’s more secure than thread, so you might want to fasten off leaving a long tail, to save you some weaving in of ends later. But, if you didn’t, you can join it later so you needn’t worry.

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Assembly

Before we begin with the assembly, take a look and make sure you have all of the necessary parts. It’s easier than you think to leave something out…when writing this pattern I totally forgot to put in the wings, I’m going back to do that right now. You should have the head (make sure you did the face before you start assembling!), body, with legs & pantaloons attached already, 2 wings (lined if desired), and the tail.

Okeydokey, now let’s proceed. I think I will write it in steps so you can follow along more easily. You can use your own technique if you prefer; this is just the method I used for Hildegard.

  1. Weave your long ending tail from the BODY through the head hole and pull to tighten it up a bit. This forms your hen into place a bit better.
  2. Now you can sew the HEAD onto the body. I used whipstitch. The back of the head (the neck, really) should be close to the slip stitch from the end of the body.
  3. Moving onto the TAIL, first up you should cinch up the tail hole if necessary, but I didn’t need to. The tail should angle back a little bit. You’re aiming for the classic chicken silhouette:IMG_1649
  4. Next of all is a good time to position the first wing, making sure the slight-diagonal side is facing down. It’s easy to get them the wrong way up, but just refer to the lovely Harriet above for placement. Another tip: the right side of the border round should be facing out, and the pointy end of the wing should be pointing down, naturally. Hildegard’s wings are nearly touching behind her, if that helps any. I sewed the short, flat end onto the body, and about 1/3 of the way down the top. Then she can move her wings a bit.
  5. Repeat this on the other side, of course reversing the wing, but mirroring the placement of the first one.
  6. Your hen might require a bit of squashing into shape. Hildegard was oddly flat in the crop (for non-chicken-aficiondos, that’s the place where they hold their food, right around their ‘chest’.) So I hand-blocked her into shape. I’m not going to recommend blocking, of course ~ don’t fear! I don’t even know how one would go about blocking an amigurumi. :)
  7. Finally, I brushed Hildegard with a hair-slicker brush. The below picture illustrates the brushing of a smaller amigurumi. Click here to go to that pattern for more details. I went especially heavy on the rear-end area because chickens have fluffy butts. XD

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Congratulations! 

You’ve crocheted a life-sized chicken! If you stuck with me all the way through, I am very impressed, and if you send me a picture and would like me to, I will happily post it here for all to marvel at.

I am going to sign off now because this post is really quite long and I am exhausted. (I am rather pleased with myself; it’s over 3200 words.) :) Good luck making your own Hildegard! Don’t forget to name her and show her to your flock, if you have one. Also, if you are ambitious enough to crochet your own (okay, the finished object is really not that useful, but who says all of your crochet items must have a use?) and get stuck along the way, please don’t hesitate to ask for assistance, I will happily help. :D

Before you leave, though, could you please take a minute to vote in this poll and let me know which kind of patterns you prefer? I would like to bring you more things that you’re interested in. Thanks!

Thank you! I greatly appreciate it. :D

 

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With much appreciation and <3 to my sister, who let me used her stuffed-animal life-size hen to model Hildegard off of. Thank you to Etheldred, the stuffed-animal life-size hen previously mentioned, for her extraordinary patience. Great thanks to my models in the pictures ~ Blanche & Pearl, who appeared in the pictures at the top, Clementine, who demonstrates the placement of the comb, wattles, earlobes, etc., and Harriet, who shows the ideal chicken silhouette.

You are all wonderful and I greatly appreciate you all! :D

A new brand of yarn!

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Lily Sugar ‘n’ Cream…

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In colorway “Olive.”

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Have you found any interesting yarn lately? I just got back from Joann Fabrics, which is my favorite place to buy yarn since it’s affordable. I <3 Red Heart Super Saver!

No guinea pigs were harmed in the making of this post!  :)