DIY Mini Book and Necklace

I’ve seen lots of cute mini book necklaces on Etsy, and there are also some cool tutorials on the internet, but I don’t have all the supplies necessary, like leather, clay, an awl, or things like that. So my sister and I set out to make our own using just a few supplies that just about everyone has laying around.

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Now, these aren’t as sturdy as the ones I’ve seen sold on Etsy, but if you just want a cute mini book for a photo prop, then this might work for you. I turned mine into a necklace because I’ve been eyeing them for a while, but it’s not very hearty because it’s just made of paper. You wouldn’t want to wear it to a fancy event, it’s more of the ‘craft project’ type of jewelry if you know what I mean. :)

Now that I’ve warned you, I’ll show you the super-easy process I used. (Don’t they look cute grouped together?) And obviously these books have copyrights, but I’m just using the cover for personal use…like for ‘fan art’. :)

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The Divergent series with its mini counterparts!

Materials

  • One sheet of A4 printer paper (you could use other paper sizes too, this is what I used though)
  • Sharp scissors
  • Packing tape
  • Paper clip
  • Picture of your book cover (Google images is great for this)
  • Printer (this is to print out your book cover picture)
  • Colored pencil (or something to color the back cover)
  • Stapler (and staple remover, if necessary)
  • Glue stick

STEP 1: Fold the piece of paper in half widthwise, then cut along the fold. Repeat this process until you have a bunch of tiny pieces of paper about 2″ tall. Fold 8 of these in half (so they look like mini book pages) but don’t cut.

STEP 2: Put the 8 pages together and stack them. Staple them together so the smooth side of the staple is on the outside of the fold. Now you have a blank mini-book.

STEP 3: Go to your printer and print out a small image of your desired book cover. It may take some trial and error to figure out what size it has to be, since it looks bigger printed out than it does on the screen (at least on my computer/printer.) If it helps, my book cover was about 3/4″ in Microsoft Word and it came out the right size. Leave some room in the left margin so you can color in a back cover.

STEP 4: Now it’s time to make a back cover. To spare ink, I colored it with colored pencil. Just pick an appropriate color and color away, making it the same size as the front cover and directly to the left (like when you lay out a book jacket.) Cut the book out.

STEP 5: Spread glue on the cover page of the blank mini-book and paste the cover onto it. Then flip it over and repeat this process on the back. Trim the pages if you have to. If you just wanted a mini book, you can stop here, but I wanted a necklace, so I’ll continue…

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They’re so adorably tiny! (Yes, that’s π nail polish.) :)

STEP 6: Cover the cover (hehe) with packing tape (I use this because it’s the only tape wide enough to completely cover it.) Fold the excess to the inside.

STEP 7: Take your paper clip and open to the middle of the book. Position it so just about a quarter inch is poking out the top, and it’s directly to the right of the fold. Tape it there with packing tape. Then hold the two center-most pages together and tape them together at the top, to further secure it.

STEP 8: Fold your book closed and use a tiny strip of packing tape to hold it closed. (I did this because I didn’t want it flapping open, but you could skip it if that was the look you wanted.) Then go find a chain to hang your new necklace on!

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I have to warn you that these are very addictive and you might find yourself with your own mini library! What books would you want to miniaturize?

The Ultimate Pi Day Scarf ~ Free Crochet Pattern! π

IT’S HERE! The ultimate Pi Day is here! For those of you who don’t know what Pi Day is, let me explain: it’s on March 14 (3/14) because 3.14 are the first 3 digits of π. This year, it’s more epic than ever because it’s 3/14/15 (3.1415). This won’t come around for another century – therefore, it’s kind of a once-in-a-lifetime experience.Screen Shot 2015-03-05 at 9.01.15 PM

It gets better, though. On 3/14/15, at 9:26:53, the first 10 digits of pi will be displayed! I’m posting this at exactly 9:26 AM (so those of you who use a 24-hour clock don’t miss out). And on PiDay.org, someone pointed out that there would be a second that contained all the digits of pi, since the :53 part goes on forever.

So what are you going to do to celebrate this wonderful day? I’ll show you what my contribution is…

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The Pi Scarf! (Please note the pi shirt behind it – we must commemorate this day, after all!) I’ve wanted one of these for ages after I saw this scarf on Craftster. But since there was no pattern, I improvised one. I should also mention that although I was inspired by that scarf, this is my own take on it – I didn’t copy the pattern from the picture, I just took inspiration from it. :)

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Since Pi Day celebrates numbers, here are some statistics on this scarf, and also the materials you’ll need if you want to make your own:

  • 30 digits of pi
  • 1 skein of I Love This Yarn in background color (Greybeard)
  • 1 skein of I Love This Yarn in number color (Pink)
  • 6 MM crochet hook
  • 3.14 days of work
  • 1 photo shoot
  • 1 blog post!

Some notes before we begin:

  1. The turning chain never counts as a stitch in this pattern.
  2. I used Foundation Double Crochet for the first row, but you could ch 16, dc in 3rd ch from hk and in each ch across instead if you prefer.
  3. This scarf uses the tapestry crochet technique, where you carry the unused yarn on top of your stitches until it’s time to use it. To keep things neat, always drop the number color to the wrong side of the scarf, and the background color to the right side. (The right side is where the numbers turn up legible.)
  4. Sometimes there will be a long strand of the number color. This should appear on the wrong side so you don’t see it as much. You can stick your hook under it and sort of crochet over it, which will make it less visible.
  5. Each number, apart from number 1, has three rows to it. Then there will be one row of gray to make a space. The number one just has one row, which should make it easy to remember.
  6. To change color, make your dc as normal but stop when you have 2 loops on the hook. Then yarn over with the new color and pull through. It might take some practice to make sure your tension is even – my first attempt was skinny in the color-change parts and wider when there was just one color. So I would not recommend this for a beginner, but if you’ve been crocheting for a while this should pose no problem.

Finally, the “pattern”.

I use quotation marks because π is so irregular, it would be nearly impossible to write a line-by-line pattern. Instead I’ll give you the pattern for each individual letter. See note #5. So let’s call this more of a “guide.”

With gray (or substitute your preferred background color here), ch 3, foundation double crochet 14 starting in 3rd ch from hk. Now we can start the numbers!

Each number will start on the right side. Since you’ll be turning at the end of each row, it will go from right side to wrong side to right side to spacing row…like most all crochet patterns.

The first 3 will actually start on the wrong side…but follow the “THREE” pattern as it’s written even though it’s not technically the right side. Then do one spacing row, then follow this:

PERIOD/DOT
RS: 9 gray, 3 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 3 pink, 9 gray, turn.

(And of course you can use whatever color you like in place of pink.)

Now do one spacing row and the pattern starts. What you’ll do is follow the directions for whatever digit comes next, then do one plain row of just gray. The trick is to get the number color to end up in the right spot for the next number. For numbers like 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, and 0, it’s at the end of the row. For numbers like 4, 7, and 9, you might have to finagle it a bit. Luckily it’s easy to frog and redo!

ONE
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

TWO
RS: 2 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray.

THREE
RS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: Repeat last row, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

FOUR
RS: 6 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 6 gray, 2 pink, 6 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

FIVE
RS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.

SIX
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.

SEVEN
RS: 10 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 10 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

EIGHT
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

NINE
RS: 6 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 6 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

ZERO
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 6 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

I did the first 30 digits, which you can see below if you scroll a bit(click to enlarge). After that, follow these next rows for the ellipses at the end:

(Starting on the RS)
Row 1: 2 gray, 3 pink, 9 gray, turn.
Row 2: 9 gray, 3 pink, 2 gray, turn.
Row 3: Entirely gray, turn.
Row 4: 9 gray, 3 pink, 2 gray, turn.
Row 5: 2 gray, 3 pink, 9 gray, turn.
Row 6: Entirely gray, turn.
Rows 7-9: Repeat Rows 1-3. (Fasten off pink at the end of Row 2.)

Edging

After you finish the last row of the dot-dot-dot, continue with gray and do the following edging.

Ch 1, turn clockwise to work over long side. *2 sc around the next dc post, 1 sc in next ch-2 space* across, finishing with 2 sc around the dc post. Ch 1, turn to work across beginning row (this is where it’s easier if you used foundation double crochet.) Sc in each st across that row.

Ch 1, turn to work across second long side. *1 sc in next ch-2 space, 2 sc around the next dc post* across, finishing with 1 sc in ch-2 space. Ch 1, turn to work across last row made. Sc in each st across. Ch 1, sl st to 1st sc made.

Fasten off and weave in ends, then proudly wear your Pi Scarf to declare your love of π!

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Happy Pi Day to all of you lovely followers. Please let me know if you make a pi scarf – it was a really fun project!

☮, ♥, & π!

Just because…

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The crown pattern is from Sarah London, I just folded down the hdc part and added some elastic. There’s nothing quite as cute as guinea pigs in crowns!

Hope you’re having a great day! Oh, and stay tuned for a <3 day pattern soon… :)

The Great Granny Square Repair

Also known as: The Most Nerve-Wracking Experience of My Life (or one of them.) :)

My mother made this gorgeous Daisy Square Afghan. There must have been over 1,000 ends to weave in, and she wove them all in securely, but Magic Rings aren’t the most durable things. It is truly a crochet masterpiece, which was why when this happened, we were horrified.

NOOOOOOOO!

NOOOOOOOO!

Luckily, Pinterest has never failed me, and I had pinned a link a few months prior on “Mending  a Friend’s Granny.” So I dug that up, found some sort-of-matching yellow yarn, looked up the Daisy Square pattern, and had a go.

Here are some in-process pictures, although if you have this problem, you should check out the tutorial. Seriously, bookmark this page, staple it to your wall, tattoo it on your arm – IT WILL SAVE YOUR GRANNY SQUARE AFGHAN.

After putting in a safety line, I cut out the unravelling yellow center (the most stressful part - make sure that safety line is sturdy!)

After putting in a safety line, I cut out the unravelling yellow center (the most stressful part – make sure that safety line is sturdy!)

Then I started crocheting the center.

Then I started crocheting the center.

A couple of stitches in, everything was going smoothly, but this is a very stressful procedure...

A couple of stitches in, everything was going smoothly, but this is a very stressful procedure…

Joined, cut off the yarn, and wove the ends in SECURELY.

Joined, cut off the yarn, and wove the ends in SECURELY.

YAAAAAAY, just like new! *cue choir singing*

YAAAAAAY, just like new! *cue choir singing*

I’m so glad this magnificent afghan could be saved – an ENORMOUS thank you to Creative Fidget for posting the tutorial!

See, I knew those hours of browsing Pinterest would come in handy someday. ;)

Please help me name this dress!

I need your help! I’ve crocheted another dress for Ever After-/Monster High (modeled on a Disney Fairy doll…they can wear each others’ clothes) and I have no idea what to name the pattern.

Photo on 2-4-15 at 2.56 PM

It’s supposed to look like one of those ball gowns with the swoopy things on the side (I have no idea what they’re called.) It can be done in one or two colors, though I like the 2-color version best.

Photo on 2-4-15 at 3.22 PM

Your suggestions are appreciated!

I’ll post the pattern soon…but it needs a name!

Thank you for any help you can offer! :)

Grumpy Octopus Coffee Cup Cozy

I’ve always liked crochet cozies, they’re along the lines of amigurumi – a somewhat useless decorative itembut super adorable! Actually, I’m amending my statement. Some cozies can be very useful to keep beverages hot, or cold, depending on the item. Which brings us to today’s post topic!

You may remember that I’m also kind of fond of cephalopods, particularly octopi. (Maybe that’s my next project – an octopus adorned with π!) Then the stars aligned and I discovered this.

The Grumpy Octopus Coffee Cup Cozy. How awesomely creative is that?

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I think it’s designed to fit a typical Starbucks cup, but it fits the “Mini LiquiSeal Travel Mug” which was a nice surprise. Since the coffee cup fits most single-serving coffee makers, this would make a great gift, if you know the recipient has that kind! Or put it on a Starbucks cup and send it with a gift certificate. Ooh, maybe this can be my next white elephant gift. :)

It has gotten several compliments already…I mean, who can resist a grumpy octopus? Thanks, Twinkie Chan, for creating this awesomeness.

Hope you’re having a non-grumpy day (but the octopi would probably be okay!)

Ever After High Cupcake Dress ~ Free Crochet Pattern

Hello there! I’ve previously posted some crochet patterns for Ever After High, but there still aren’t a ton of free crochet patterns for them. I’m sure you can guess where this is going…I’m planning to post some more, and we’re starting off with a cupcake dress!

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This is a relatively quick and easy dress, once you get the hang of the bobbles. It can be a bit challenging with the smaller crochet hook, but I’m pleased with the end result. And if it’s summer where you live, your EAH can wear it right away…although since when do dolls pay attention to the weather? :)

Materials

  • Worsted weight yarn in cake color and frosting color (I used Red Heart Super Saver in Buff and Baby Pink, respectively)
  • F (3.75 MM) crochet hook

Notes & Special Stitches

  • Cluster = *Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1st two loops* three times into the next stitch (4 loops on hook.) Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops. This forms a bobble, and when worked with the wrong side facing, it will pop through to the right side.
  • For the bodice (the cake part), I used back loop slip stitch to create ribbing. I’ve found it’s hard to crochet for EAH because of their weird proportions. The slip stitching works well because it’s stretchy enough to stretch over their hips, but then it’s tight around the torso. The main thing to remember is to keep your stitches loose so you can work into them later.

Bodice

With cake color, ch 11.

Row 1: Sl st in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across (10).

Row 2-16: Ch 1, turn, sl st in back loop of each st across.

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Hold the last row and the starting chain together and, working through the back loops of the last row and both loops of the starting chain, whipstitch them together. Weave in ends.

Skirt

Join frosting color to the open end of the bodice, where you seamed it up (this will conceal the seam in the back.) Working clockwise into the 16 spaces in the row ends:

Rnd 1: *Sc in next row end, 2 sc in next row end* 8 times. Sl st to 1st sc. (24)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, TURN. (This is the only time you will turn in the skirt section – now the wrong side should be facing.) Sc in same st, cluster in next st. *Sc in next st, cluster in next st* around. Sl st to 1st sc. (12 sc, 12 clusters)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, cluster in same st, sc in next st. *Cluster in next st, sc in next st* around, sl st to 1st cluster.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, cluster in next st. *Sc in next st, cluster in next st* around, sl st to 1st sc.

Rnds 5-6: Repeat Rnds 3 and 4.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Make sure the back of the clusters are facing out so they “pop”.

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I hope you enjoy this pattern! It would be adorable to include one of these with a birthday doll (it does not look exactly like a cupcake, but what if you added sprinkles?)

Now I’m off to crochet another dress! Have a great day.

The All-Purpose Fashion Doll Dress ~ Free Crochet Pattern

Hello there, and happy Christmas Eve! Although I love making super fancy Barbie dresses, there are some times where you just need a quick and casual outfit, so I designed this dress with that in mind. I’ve made ten or so of these dresses, and it’s now my go-to dress pattern, because it’s so easy! It’s made all in one piece, and it takes me less than a half hour.

Because I like lots of different kinds of dolls, I have sized this dress to fit four popular types, as demonstrated in the picture below. If you’re quick, you could make a few as stocking stuffers for any of these kind of dolls!

From left to right: Barbie, Fairy Tale High, Ever After High, and Monster High. (What's with all the Highs?)

From left to right: Barbie, Fairy Tale High, Ever After High, and Monster High. (What’s with all the Highs?)

There’s one version for Barbie and FTH, and another version for EAH and MH. The dress is kind of loose on Monster High, so let me know in the comments if you’re interested in a modified version!

Materials

  • Small amount of worsted weight yarn (I don’t know the exact yardage, but I would estimate 20-30 yards.) A note on yarns: All worsted-weight yarns seem to be slightly different thicknesses, but I’ve tried it with Red Heart Super Saver, I Love This Yarn, and Caron Simply Soft (RHSS and ILTH are on the thicker side, while CSS* is on the thinner) and it worked equally well with both. Sorry for the run-on sentence there!
  • H (5.00 MM) crochet hook

*CSS = Caron Simply Soft, not Cascading Style Sheets. I’m not that high-tech. :)

Notes

Chain join = This is used to join the straps, and it looks smoother than a slip stitch. Remove your hook from the loop, insert hook through indicated chain space, put the loop back on your hook, pull the loop through the chain loop and chain 1.

At the end of the bodice, you’ll be directed to fasten off and sew the ends together, but I cheat on this part because I hate weaving in ends. Just leave a long tail when you start the bodice, and when you finish it, slip stitch to the opposite side and start going on the skirt. You’ll have a gaping hole in the back of the bodice which you can sew up with the beginning tail. If you do it this way, you can make the whole dress with just 2 ends to weave in. 😄

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Barbie & Fairy Tale High

Bodice

Row 1: Ch 8. Sc in second ch from hk and in each ch across (7).

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across (7)

Row 3: Ch 8, turn. Sc in each st across (7)

Rows 4 – 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across.

Row 7: Ch 4, chain join into chain 8 loop from Row 3, ch 3, turn to work back across last row (strap made.) Sc in each st across.

Rows 8 – 10: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across.

Row 11: Repeat Row 3.

Rows 12 – 14: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across.

Row 15: Ch 4, chain join into chain 8 loop from Row 11, ch 3, turn to work back across last row (strap made.) Sc in each st across.

Row 16: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Fasten off, leaving approximately 8″ tail for sewing. Whipstitch the beginning chain edge and the final row together.

Skirt

Round 1: Join contrasting color to bottom, strap-free edge. Work 16 sc evenly spaced around edge (1 in the end of each row.) Join with a slip stitch to join.

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc now and throughout), 2 dc in same st. *Skip next st, 3 dc into next st* around. Sl st into 2nd chain of beginning chain 2 to join.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining. Sc in each st around. Sl st to join.

Round 4: Repeat Round 2.

Round 5: Repeat Round 3.

Round 6: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st. *Skip next 2 sts, 3 dc into next st* around. Sl st into 2nd ch of beginning chain 2 to join.

Rounds 7-11: Repeat Round 3 and 6, two more times, then repeat Round 3 once more. If you want the skirt to be longer or shorter, add or subtract repeats of Rounds 3 and 6, ending with Round 3. Do not fasten off, continue on to the edging as follows.

Edging

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in same st. *Ch 5, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st* around to last 2 sts. Ch 2, dc in first sc (counts as last ch loop.)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc over post of double crochet just worked. *Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop* around. Sl st to first sc to join.

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Ever After High & Monster High

Bodice

Row 1: Ch 7. Sc in second ch from hk and in each ch across (6).

Row 2: Ch 7, turn. Sc in each st across (6)

Row 3-5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across (6)

Row 6: Ch 3, chain join into chain 8 loop from Row 2, ch 3, turn to work back across last row (strap made.) Sc in each st across.

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across.

Row 8: Repeat Row 2.

Rows 9-11: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across.

Row 12: Ch 3, chain join into chain 7 loop from Row 8, ch 3, turn to work back across last row (strap made.) Sc in each st across. Fasten off, leaving approximately 8″ tail for sewing. Whipstitch the beginning chain edge and the final row together.

Skirt

Round 1: Join contrasting color to bottom, strap-free edge. Work into the ends of the rows as follows (you’ll have 12 sts to work into): *sc into next row end, 2 sc in next row end*. You should have 18 sts at the end. Sl st to 1st sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc now and throughout), 2 dc in same st. *Skip next st, 3 dc into next st* around. Sl st into 2nd chain of beginning chain 2 to join.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining. Sc in each st around. Sl st to join.

Round 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st. *Skip next 2 sts, 3 dc into next st* around. Sl st into 2nd ch of beginning chain 2 to join.

Round 5: Repeat Round 3.

Round 6: Repeat Round 4.

Rounds 7-8: Repeat Round 3 and 4 once more, then repeat Round 3 one more time. If you want the skirt to be longer or shorter, add or subtract repeats of Rounds 3 and 4, ending with Round 3. Do not fasten off, continue on to the edging as follows.

Edging

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in same st. *Ch 5, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st* around to last 2 sts. Ch 2, dc in first sc (counts as last ch loop.)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc over post of double crochet just worked. *Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop* around. Sl st to first sc to join.

~

I hope you enjoy this pattern! What kind of dresses would you like to see in the future? I have another one planned for Ever After High, but I would welcome your thoughts on the matter. You can never have too many Barbie dresses! :) Have a wonderful day!

I donut know what to title this post! 🍩

Last year I went to a Christmas party where we had a white elephant gift exchange. 🐘 For my gift, I crocheted a white elephant from Lucy Ravenscar’s pattern. It was a big hit and it got “stolen” twice, as everyone loved how obvious it was. So when I found out we were doing a white elephant at this year’s party, I knew I wanted to crochet something…but what?

I’m sure you can make an educated guess by this post’s title, so here’s a picture of this year’s white elephant gift.

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By the way, I think the proper spelling is “doughnut”, but to make things easier I’m going to take the “ugh” out of “doughnut” and use the abbreviated, more popular version. Also, to shake things up, I think I’ll use donut emoticons instead of smiley faces throughout the post! 🍩

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I used the Crochet Donuts Pattern from Little Things Blogged, and it was absolutely perfect for the cause! As for yarn, I used Red Heart Super Saver (is there any surprise there?) in Buff for the cake color, and Baby Pink and White for the frosting. I don’t know the brand of the dark brown yarn, but I used it for chocolate cake and frosting.

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I have to say, I’m really pleased with how they turned out. I fooled someone into thinking they were real donuts, too, and I wasn’t even in the room! I will be sad to part with them, but they’ll be immortalized here as long as WordPress is around. 🍩 (Sorry for getting all existential there!)

I used fabric glue to do the swirly frosting, but I hand-sewed all the seed beads on. It was one of the most monotonous experiences of my life, but I think it was worth it. I also made a smaller donut necklace with sprinkles, too, which I’ll be posting about sometime.

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All of these donuts are making me hungry…and they’re also making me think of Twinkie Chan! I’m a big fan of food-themed crochet, and I’m hoping these donuts go over well.

How are you doing on your holiday crochet? It’s hard to believe Christmas is only four days away! I think these donuts would make a pretty good gift…they don’t have calories, and they’re high in fiber!

P.S.The WordPress “circle” gallery seems like it was designed for this purpose, so here are three donuts in their own gallery:

Guinea Pig Sweater ~ Free Crochet Pattern

Although I have crocheted accessories for the guinea pigs in the past, I was surprised to find that I had never made them a sweater! So here’s a pattern in case you had the same realization as me, or your favorite piggie is cold, or you’re just looking for a great photo op. :)

Your daily dose of cuteness!

Your daily dose of cuteness!

Materials

  • Small amount of worsted weight yarn (category 4)
  • H (5.00 MM) crochet hook
  • Guinea pig!

Notes

The guinea pig who modeled the sweater, Clover, is a bit bigger than the typical pet-store variety, so you may need to adjust the number of rows to fit the pig in question. (If your pig is skinnier, I suggest replacing the “Rows 7-39″ with “Rows 7-31″ to make it shorter (make sure to end on an odd-numbered row, or the armholes will be off.)

The entire sweater is worked in BACK LOOPS ONLY! This makes the ribbed effect (which will also help the sweater stretch to fit.)

Also, a note on turning: After you chain 1, if you turn the crochet like you’re turning the pages of a book, it will create the neatest edges and will also minimize curling.

Edit: Sorry, I forgot to write Row 42 in the pattern. It is fixed as of 1/11/15. :)

Guinea Pig Sweater

Row 1: Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across. (15)

Row 2-4: Ch 1, turn*, sc in each st across.

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, ch 7, sk 7, sc in last 5 sts.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, sc in back loop of next 7 ch, sc in last 3 sts.

Row 7-39: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Row 40: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, ch 7, sk 7, sc in last 3 sts.

Row 41: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, sc in back loop of next 7 ch, sc in last 5 sts.

Row 42: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 sts, sc in back loop of next 7 ch, sc in last 3 sts.

Row 43-45: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

I added a sc border across the top. Then fasten off and weave in your ends (you could add a fancy edging, too, like ruffles or picots!)

The chain 7 spaces are the armholes, and the sweater is open on the bottom for ease of dressing. I was afraid buttons would get caught on their fur, but if you have a short-haired pig, try adding buttonholes and sewing on buttons. I will warn you, it’s very hard to get a guinea pig in a sweater (although it’s easier than a chicken!). Keep a sharp eye on them so they don’t eat it…that’s too much fiber for their diet!

Clover wishes you happy holidays!

Clover wishes you happy holidays! Thank you, Clover, for modeling! :D