DIY Guinea Pig Top Hat!

We’ve all seen those adorable-animal pictures circulating the internet…you know, the ones with bunnies in sweaters, or dogs in little hats? I’ve even taken some myself (each of those is a link.) But it hadn’t occurred to me to put the Calico Critter Top Hat on a guinea pig…and I’m so glad I did!

Olive in her stylish new top hat

“Don’t I look stylish in my new hat?”

You can check out the original pattern here. Since I’ve made a few adjustments to the pattern, and now it’s being modeled on a guinea pig! – I made a tutorial so you, too, can make a top hat for your guinea pig (or rabbit…or hamster*…or whatever!) I’ve also included more information on selecting yarn, in case that’s helpful. *For the hamster top hat, use a 3 MM crochet hook and follow the same pattern, but do double crochets in the bow instead of triples. It’s hard to crochet so tightly, but the sizing is more accurate.



  • Red Heart Soft yarn. You can try using other kinds of worsted-weight too, but if you’re making several of these hats, it’s best to use the same brand so you have the same gauge. Some Unknown-3worsted-weight yarns seem to be a lot thicker than others (for example, Caron Simply Soft is on the thinner side while Red Heart Super Saver and I Love This Yarn are on the thicker. Red Heart Soft seems to be in the middle.) There are two kinds of Red Heart Soft, the normal type and then “Red Heart Baby Soft.” I used mostly Baby Soft for the color palette (pastels.) You need the hat color and then white for the bow (or whatever color you like, but I find white is nice and clean-looking.)
  • F (3.75 MM) crochet hook
  • Stitch marker (yarn scrap, paper clip, safety pin…)
  • Yarn needle (if you have a sharper one rather than a dull tapestry needle, it makes the sewing easier)
  • Guinea pig! (optional)

Stitches Used

I use US crochet terms in all of my patterns. Here are the stitches used in this pattern with their abbreviations. Chain (ch) = Chain Slip Stitch (sl st) US Single Crochet (sc) = UK Double Crochet US Double Crochet (dc) = UK Treble Crochet US Triple/Treble Crochet (tr) = UK Double-Treble Crochet I also used an Invisible Join at the end of the top hat, to keep things neater. I learned it from Mrs. Micawber’s excellent tutorial, which you should definitely check out!

Top Hat

IMG_3117 Make a Magic Ring, ch 1. (If you’d prefer to not use a Magic Ring, then you can ch 2 and make 7 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, but I like magic rings because they leave no center hole.) IMG_3118 Make 7 sc into the ring, do not join. We’ll be working in a spiral, so put a stitch marker on the loop on your hook and keep moving it at the end of each round. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts.) IMG_3120 Rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st.* Repeat around (18 stitches.) You’re going to slip stitch to the next stitch, indicated in the above picture. IMG_3121 Then chain 1. The purpose of this is so the back-loop ridge will appear in a straight line, rather than staggered because of the spiral. So the next round will be single crochet in the back loops, starting in the next stitch, then we’ll continue in the spiral (until the brim.)

Single crochet in the back loop

Single crochet in the back loop

Rnd 4: Sc around in the back loops only. Rnd 5-8: Sc around in both loops. IMG_3124 Rnd 9: *Sc in next st, sc2tog* around. (12 sts) Slip stitch into the next stitch, indicated by the helpful arrow above… IMG_3125 …and pull the slip stitch tight. Just yank the yarn until the sl st disappears, which will make it invisible (or nearly.) IMG_3126 Rnd 10: Ch 2. Starting in the same st, 2 dc in each st around, through front loops only. IMG_3127 When you get back to the beginning, we’ll be working in a spiral again, so skip the ch-2 and start in the first double crochet, which is indicated by the arrow – I can’t even draw a straight arrow! :) IMG_3128 Rnd 11: Don’t join or chain or anything; just do *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* (so increasing in every other stitch around.) Then use an invisible join, skipping over the next stitch and joining to the following one. That keeps the stitch count even. IMG_3129 Thanks, Mrs. Micawber, for your fabulous Invisible Join tutorials! :) IMG_3130 Then you just need to weave in the final end, if you crocheted over the first one as you went. I weave mine through the base of the dc row, for about half of the hat. If you turn it around and weave back the other way it makes it sturdier. Realistically, though, you don’t have to make it too secure – it’s a guinea pig top hat! (Unless you have a sumo-wrestling or super-hero guinea pig that needs a really sturdy hat.)

The Bow (because bows make everything better!)


Using the same size hook and yarn, make a magic ring and ch 4. Make 3 triple crochets into the ring, ch 3 and sl st into the ring. Ch 3, make 3 triple crochets into the ring, ch 3, sl st into the ring. Ch 1 and fasten off, leaving a 2-foot-ish tail. IMG_3132 Then wrap the ends around the center about 5-6 times. I tie them in a double-knot at the back and then weave one of them in, leaving the other one to sew the bow to the top hat. IMG_3133 Then you’ve made your own guinea pig top hat! Yay! The last thing I do is to cut a 9-ish-inch piece of round elastic and tie it to the hat. It’s easy if you use the spare loops you created while making the brim. I fold it in half so the bow’s at the front so I can easily see where to attach it. Just a single knot will do the trick; then it’s adjustable too. IMG_3268 My next mission is to write a pattern for these guinea pig bunny ears! Congratulations if you made it to the end of this very long post. Are there any other tutorials that you’d like to see? Happy crocheting!

Pour mes suiveurs français (For my French followers)

Hi! WordPress is being weird; I tried to post this a minute ago but it showed up as being posted on April 21! Sorry if you got two email notifications for this post. 

Bonjour tout le monde ! Dans ma classe de français, j’ai dû faire un guide pratique en français. J’ai choisi d’écrire au sujet de « laine-bombarder. » Je présente le livre ici, si vous parlez français et voudriez faire un pull-over pour vos arbres.  Je suis un peu nerveuse à propos de poster ça ; mon français n’est pas parfait, mais j’éspère que vous pouvez me comprendre !

Hi everyone! In my French class, I had an assignment to write a how-to book in French. I decided to write about yarn-bombing. I’m uploading the book here, in case you speak French and want to make a sweater for your trees. I’m a little nervous about posting this; my French isn’t perfect but I hope it’s understandable! Click here for the tutorial in English.

Cliquez ici pour voir le livre (click hère to see it):


J’éspère que vous l’aimez! (Hope you like it!) Ditez-moi si vous voulez encore de postes en français.  :)

Granny Rose CAL Part 1 & 2 💐

You may remember me posting about Apple Blossom Dreams’ crochet-a-long before, here – that was for the “Rockman Afghan” CAL, but prior to that, I followed along with her Granny Rose CAL and made a pillow. Well, suffice it to say that I am over-the-moon excited about the SECOND Granny Rose CAL! *throws granny rose confetti*

The first post was about gathering supplies, and Astri said she used Stylecraft Special DK. For once I had the same yarn; I had received the Lucy yarn pack for my birthday and was looking for the perfect project to make with it. Here’s a picture of my yarn – aren’t the colors amazing? I’m terrible at choosing colors, so I was glad that Lucy did the color-choosing for me. :D


I remembered the granny rose pattern from the first CAL, so I set to work. I’m using all of the colors except the dark green in the bottom row – that will be for the leaves. (Fingers crossed I have enough! It’s on back-order at Wool Warehouse and I just have this one skein.) I’m doing the different-colored center, and Astri has some great tips in her blog post here.



I’m doing a few things differently, though:

  • I decided to do knotless ch 4, sl st to form a ring, instead of a magic ring. After the afghan unraveling disaster, I figured this would be more secure (especially since I’m kind of terrible at weaving in ends securely!)
  • After I made the center and did the chain-loop round with the contrasting color, I crocheted over all 3 ends so I wouldn’t have to weave them in later. (In case you hadn’t gathered, I detest weaving in ends and will go to great lengths to avoid it.) I think it will be sturdy enough since I’m crocheting over them for the entire round.
  • I’m also making the centers mostly all in one go, then doing the outer petals. Sometimes I get too excited and make a few complete flowers, though. ;)


If you’ve never done a crochet-a-long before, it’s super fun, and Astri is wonderful – you should totally join in if you can! :) Now I’m off to make some more granny roses… 🌹


Happy Birthday, Katniss!

It’s Katniss’s birthday today, so I thought I’d do a post in celebration…and also show you my latest project, which I made for the occasion.

Check out this quote if you want proof:

I kept telling myself if I could only hold out until May, May 8th, I would turn twelve and be able to sign up for the tesserae and get the precious grain and oil to feed us.

~ Katniss Everdeen, “The Hunger Games”

I didn’t know what to make in honor of the Mockingjay…until I was looking at the dress she wears in the 75th Hunger Games interview. I thought it would be super cool, symbolic, and an appropriate ‘birthday present’ for Katniss if I made a shawl that looked like the wings of that dress (click here to see a picture.). I don’t know if I succeeded, but here it is!

The "I-really-hope-this-resembles-a-mockingjay Shawl"

The “I-really-hope-this-resembles-a-mockingjay Shawl” and an awkwardly posing blogger :)

Here’s how I made it, in case you’re dying to make your own Katniss shawl! ;) I used the “I Promise You Pineapples” shawl pattern by Justyna Kacprzak, which I thought looked rather wing-like. It was fun because no two rows were exactly the same. I’ve come to the conclusion that I just don’t like mindless crochet…I get too bored. So this pattern was perfect!

It's hard to pose with a shawl!

If you’re curious…the shirt says “If I can’t take my yarn, I’m not going.” :)

What I Used:

  • 2 skeins of I Love This Yarn in Greybeard (unfortunately they did not have the same dye lot)
  • A tiny bit of I Love This Yarn in black
  • J (6.00 MM) crochet hook

My Modifications:

I did check my gauge, but when I finished all 33 rows of the shawl, it was very short, it didn’t reach my wrists like in the first photo. I wanted to make it bigger, but I didn’t want the bottom to get longer, so I modified a bit. This is where I started my second skein…one skein was enough to make the whole 33 rows.

IMG_3963 2

Row34: Don’t fasten off, but ch 3, turn, *shell in next shell, ch 2* until you reach the marked st, then make 2 dc into that st. Cut the yarn. Then turn it around so you can work back across that row.

Row 35: Skip 2 dc, next shell, and join your yarn into the next shell after that. I joined with a standing dc. 2 dc into that space, *ch 2, shell into next shell* across, dc into ch 3.

Repeat these rows until you have 2 shells and one half-shell on top. Then do it on the other side. You’ll have to start at the 17th shell, though, and begin with Row 35 like this:

Modified Row 35: Standing dc in marked shell, dc in same sp, *ch 2, shell in next shell* across, dc into ch 3.

You will have approximately five bazillion ends to weave in, but the shawl will be extended. I kind of like how it looks, what about you?:


Next I joined my yarn to the end of a row (after spending approximately five bazillion hours weaving in those ends) and did:

Edging Row 1: Ch 3, *shell in next shell, ch 2* across. When  you reach a half-shell (2dc), work your shell in between the 2 stitches. Then fasten off gray.

Edging Row 2: Join black and ch 3. *shell in next shell, ch 3* across, shell in last shell, dc into ch 3.

Fasten off and weave in all ends, and YAY!


Since this was I Love This Yarn, I stuck in the washer and dryer and it came out so much softer and drapier…one of the reasons why I really do <3 this yarn.

Or it could be a really fluffy scarf, if you're so inclined.

Or it could be a really fluffy scarf, if you’re so inclined.

I’ve been meaning to make another shawl for a while, so I’m glad I finally got around to it…just in time for my favorite book character’s birthday! Now I just need to figure out how to wear a shawl and look confident about it…does anybody have any tips?

Happy birthday, Katniss!

Happy birthday, Katniss!

May the odds be ever in your favor!

Cinderella’s Pink Dress ~ Free Crochet Pattern

It’s taken me a while to do this post, between crocheting, photographing, and writing the pattern, but here it is at last. I saw the new live-action Cinderella (and LOVED it!) I don’t think it’s in theaters anymore…it’s taken me far too long to post this.


Then I got a Cinderella Barbie and decided I needed to crochet some outfits for her. She came in the beautiful blue ball gown, so I made her the pink one, the one that her stepfamily tears up.


  • Small amount of worsted-weight yarn – I used I Love This Yarn in “Pink”, which seemed to be the right shade of pink for this dress.
  • H (5.00 MM) crochet hook

Special Stitches

  • Extended single crochet (exsc) = Insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop, ch 1, yo, pull through 2 loops.
  • 3 triple crochet bobble (3-tr bobble) = *Yo 2x, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops) 2x*, rep from * to * 2 more times into same st, yo, pull through all 3 loops.



Rnd 1: Ch 21, sl st to join. Ch 1, starting in same st, *exsc, 2 exsc* 2x, exsc. Ch 2, sk next 4 ch, sc in next 3 ch, sl st, sc in next 3 ch. Ch 2, sk next 4 ch, exsc in last ch. Sl st to first st.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, exsc in same st and in each st around, working through 2 loops of the chain stitches when you come to them. Sl st to first st.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, starting in same st, *exsc 2, exsc2tog* around until 3 sts remain, exsc 3, sl st to first st.

Rnd 4-6: Ch 2, exsc in same st and in each st around. Sl st to first st.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around. Sl st to first st.

Rnd 8: Ch 1, starting in same st, *sc, 2 sc* around until 3 sts remain, sc 3. Sl st to first st.

Rnd 9: Ch 2, starting in same st, *dc 2, 2 dc* around. Sl st to first st.

Rnd 10: Ch 3, TURN (so WS is now facing), starting in same st, *tr, 2 tr* around. Sl st to first st.

Rnd 11-15: Ch 3, tr in each st around, sl st to first st. Fasten off and weave in ends.


Rnd 1: Join the yarn to an armhole. Sc around the spare chain stitches, one stitch at the side of the armhole to result in 7 sts. Sl st to first st. This is the RS.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, turn, 3-tr bobble in each st around. Sl st to first st.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around. Sl st to first st.

Rnd 4: Ch 3, turn, 2 tr in each st around. Sl st to first st.

Rnd 5: Ch 2, sl st in same st, *ch 2, sl st in next st* around. Ch 1, fasten off, weave in ends.

Repeat to make a sleeve on the other side.

Neck Ruffle

Rnd 1: Leaving a long tail for sewing, ch 22, sl st to first ch. Ch 3, starting in same ch *tr, 2 tr* around, sl st to first st. Fasten off, weave in end.

Use the long tail to whipstitch the neck ruffle’s starting chain to the dress’s starting chain. Make sure the wrong side of the ruffle is facing, which makes it rufflier. Weave in all ends, and you’re done.


Have you seen the new Cinderella movie? There are so many gorgeous dresses I want to crochet! Any requests?

A Lamb For Easter

Happy Easter to those of you who celebrate it, and happy springtime to those who don’t! I made a little lamb for an Easter present, but I couldn’t give it away without doing a photo shoot first, which I present to you below. (You can scroll through the slideshow with the arrows.)

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Some details, for anyone interested: I used the “Chinese New Year Lamb” pattern from All About Ami and followed it exactly, except with the materials/hook sizes I used.

  • Bernat Pipsqueak yarn (as recommended in the pattern) with a 5MM hook. This is the softest, fluffiest, most lamb-like yarn ever! It also comes in pastel variegated, which I think would make an adorable lamb.
  • Red Heart Super Saver tan-ish colored yarn with a 4MM hook for the hooves
  • Red Heart With Love white yarn, also with a 4MM hook for the legs
  • 2.1MM hook and embroidery floss for the collar – I just chained 50 or so and tied a little bow around her neck

It’s a fabulous pattern and it was very fun to work on. I have enough yarn left to make another, so I think I’ll be doing that in the near future! I wouldn’t say this about just anything, but this lamb might be my favorite amigurumi of all-time (a close second would be Hildegard.) What do you think?

So, my lovely followers, have you crocheted/knitted/sewn/crafted anything spring-related recently? I hope your day has been wonderful. :)

DIY Mini Book and Necklace

I’ve seen lots of cute mini book necklaces on Etsy, and there are also some cool tutorials on the internet, but I don’t have all the supplies necessary, like leather, clay, an awl, or things like that. So my sister and I set out to make our own using just a few supplies that just about everyone has laying around.


Now, these aren’t as sturdy as the ones I’ve seen sold on Etsy, but if you just want a cute mini book for a photo prop, then this might work for you. I turned mine into a necklace because I’ve been eyeing them for a while, but it’s not very hearty because it’s just made of paper. You wouldn’t want to wear it to a fancy event, it’s more of the ‘craft project’ type of jewelry if you know what I mean. :)

Now that I’ve warned you, I’ll show you the super-easy process I used. (Don’t they look cute grouped together?) And obviously these books have copyrights, but I’m just using the cover for personal use…like for ‘fan art’. :)


The Divergent series with its mini counterparts!


  • One sheet of A4 printer paper (you could use other paper sizes too, this is what I used though)
  • Sharp scissors
  • Packing tape
  • Paper clip
  • Picture of your book cover (Google images is great for this)
  • Printer (this is to print out your book cover picture)
  • Colored pencil (or something to color the back cover)
  • Stapler (and staple remover, if necessary)
  • Glue stick

STEP 1: Fold the piece of paper in half widthwise, then cut along the fold. Repeat this process until you have a bunch of tiny pieces of paper about 2″ tall. Fold 8 of these in half (so they look like mini book pages) but don’t cut.

STEP 2: Put the 8 pages together and stack them. Staple them together so the smooth side of the staple is on the outside of the fold. Now you have a blank mini-book.

STEP 3: Go to your printer and print out a small image of your desired book cover. It may take some trial and error to figure out what size it has to be, since it looks bigger printed out than it does on the screen (at least on my computer/printer.) If it helps, my book cover was about 3/4″ in Microsoft Word and it came out the right size. Leave some room in the left margin so you can color in a back cover.

STEP 4: Now it’s time to make a back cover. To spare ink, I colored it with colored pencil. Just pick an appropriate color and color away, making it the same size as the front cover and directly to the left (like when you lay out a book jacket.) Cut the book out.

STEP 5: Spread glue on the cover page of the blank mini-book and paste the cover onto it. Then flip it over and repeat this process on the back. Trim the pages if you have to. If you just wanted a mini book, you can stop here, but I wanted a necklace, so I’ll continue…


They’re so adorably tiny! (Yes, that’s π nail polish.) :)

STEP 6: Cover the cover (hehe) with packing tape (I use this because it’s the only tape wide enough to completely cover it.) Fold the excess to the inside.

STEP 7: Take your paper clip and open to the middle of the book. Position it so just about a quarter inch is poking out the top, and it’s directly to the right of the fold. Tape it there with packing tape. Then hold the two center-most pages together and tape them together at the top, to further secure it.

STEP 8: Fold your book closed and use a tiny strip of packing tape to hold it closed. (I did this because I didn’t want it flapping open, but you could skip it if that was the look you wanted.) Then go find a chain to hang your new necklace on!


I have to warn you that these are very addictive and you might find yourself with your own mini library! What books would you want to miniaturize?

The Ultimate Pi Day Scarf ~ Free Crochet Pattern! π

IT’S HERE! The ultimate Pi Day is here! For those of you who don’t know what Pi Day is, let me explain: it’s on March 14 (3/14) because 3.14 are the first 3 digits of π. This year, it’s more epic than ever because it’s 3/14/15 (3.1415). This won’t come around for another century – therefore, it’s kind of a once-in-a-lifetime experience.Screen Shot 2015-03-05 at 9.01.15 PM

It gets better, though. On 3/14/15, at 9:26:53, the first 10 digits of pi will be displayed! I’m posting this at exactly 9:26 AM (so those of you who use a 24-hour clock don’t miss out). And on, someone pointed out that there would be a second that contained all the digits of pi, since the :53 part goes on forever.

So what are you going to do to celebrate this wonderful day? I’ll show you what my contribution is…


The Pi Scarf! (Please note the pi shirt behind it – we must commemorate this day, after all!) I’ve wanted one of these for ages after I saw this scarf on Craftster. But since there was no pattern, I improvised one. I should also mention that although I was inspired by that scarf, this is my own take on it – I didn’t copy the pattern from the picture, I just took inspiration from it. :)


Since Pi Day celebrates numbers, here are some statistics on this scarf, and also the materials you’ll need if you want to make your own:

  • 30 digits of pi
  • 1 skein of I Love This Yarn in background color (Greybeard)
  • 1 skein of I Love This Yarn in number color (Pink)
  • 6 MM crochet hook
  • 3.14 days of work
  • 1 photo shoot
  • 1 blog post!

Some notes before we begin:

  1. The turning chain never counts as a stitch in this pattern.
  2. I used Foundation Double Crochet for the first row, but you could ch 16, dc in 3rd ch from hk and in each ch across instead if you prefer.
  3. This scarf uses the tapestry crochet technique, where you carry the unused yarn on top of your stitches until it’s time to use it. To keep things neat, always drop the number color to the wrong side of the scarf, and the background color to the right side. (The right side is where the numbers turn up legible.)
  4. Sometimes there will be a long strand of the number color. This should appear on the wrong side so you don’t see it as much. You can stick your hook under it and sort of crochet over it, which will make it less visible.
  5. Each number, apart from number 1, has three rows to it. Then there will be one row of gray to make a space. The number one just has one row, which should make it easy to remember.
  6. To change color, make your dc as normal but stop when you have 2 loops on the hook. Then yarn over with the new color and pull through. It might take some practice to make sure your tension is even – my first attempt was skinny in the color-change parts and wider when there was just one color. So I would not recommend this for a beginner, but if you’ve been crocheting for a while this should pose no problem.

Finally, the “pattern”.

I use quotation marks because π is so irregular, it would be nearly impossible to write a line-by-line pattern. Instead I’ll give you the pattern for each individual letter. See note #5. So let’s call this more of a “guide.”

With gray (or substitute your preferred background color here), ch 3, foundation double crochet 14 starting in 3rd ch from hk. Now we can start the numbers!

Each number will start on the right side. Since you’ll be turning at the end of each row, it will go from right side to wrong side to right side to spacing row…like most all crochet patterns.

The first 3 will actually start on the wrong side…but follow the “THREE” pattern as it’s written even though it’s not technically the right side. Then do one spacing row, then follow this:

RS: 9 gray, 3 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 3 pink, 9 gray, turn.

(And of course you can use whatever color you like in place of pink.)

Now do one spacing row and the pattern starts. What you’ll do is follow the directions for whatever digit comes next, then do one plain row of just gray. The trick is to get the number color to end up in the right spot for the next number. For numbers like 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, and 0, it’s at the end of the row. For numbers like 4, 7, and 9, you might have to finagle it a bit. Luckily it’s easy to frog and redo!

RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

RS: 2 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray.

RS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: Repeat last row, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

RS: 6 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 6 gray, 2 pink, 6 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

RS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.

RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.

RS: 10 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 10 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

RS: 6 gray, 6 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, 2 pink, 6 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.
WS: 2 gray, 2 pink, 6 gray, 2 pink, 2 gray, turn.
RS: 2 gray, 10 pink, 2 gray, turn.

I did the first 30 digits, which you can see below if you scroll a bit(click to enlarge). After that, follow these next rows for the ellipses at the end:

(Starting on the RS)
Row 1: 2 gray, 3 pink, 9 gray, turn.
Row 2: 9 gray, 3 pink, 2 gray, turn.
Row 3: Entirely gray, turn.
Row 4: 9 gray, 3 pink, 2 gray, turn.
Row 5: 2 gray, 3 pink, 9 gray, turn.
Row 6: Entirely gray, turn.
Rows 7-9: Repeat Rows 1-3. (Fasten off pink at the end of Row 2.)


After you finish the last row of the dot-dot-dot, continue with gray and do the following edging.

Ch 1, turn clockwise to work over long side. *2 sc around the next dc post, 1 sc in next ch-2 space* across, finishing with 2 sc around the dc post. Ch 1, turn to work across beginning row (this is where it’s easier if you used foundation double crochet.) Sc in each st across that row.

Ch 1, turn to work across second long side. *1 sc in next ch-2 space, 2 sc around the next dc post* across, finishing with 1 sc in ch-2 space. Ch 1, turn to work across last row made. Sc in each st across. Ch 1, sl st to 1st sc made.

Fasten off and weave in ends, then proudly wear your Pi Scarf to declare your love of π!


Happy Pi Day to all of you lovely followers. Please let me know if you make a pi scarf – it was a really fun project!

☮, ♥, & π!

Just because…


The crown pattern is from Sarah London, I just folded down the hdc part and added some elastic. There’s nothing quite as cute as guinea pigs in crowns!

Hope you’re having a great day! Oh, and stay tuned for a <3 day pattern soon… :)

The Great Granny Square Repair

Also known as: The Most Nerve-Wracking Experience of My Life (or one of them.) :)

My mother made this gorgeous Daisy Square Afghan. There must have been over 1,000 ends to weave in, and she wove them all in securely, but Magic Rings aren’t the most durable things. It is truly a crochet masterpiece, which was why when this happened, we were horrified.



Luckily, Pinterest has never failed me, and I had pinned a link a few months prior on “Mending  a Friend’s Granny.” So I dug that up, found some sort-of-matching yellow yarn, looked up the Daisy Square pattern, and had a go.

Here are some in-process pictures, although if you have this problem, you should check out the tutorial. Seriously, bookmark this page, staple it to your wall, tattoo it on your arm – IT WILL SAVE YOUR GRANNY SQUARE AFGHAN.

After putting in a safety line, I cut out the unravelling yellow center (the most stressful part - make sure that safety line is sturdy!)

After putting in a safety line, I cut out the unravelling yellow center (the most stressful part – make sure that safety line is sturdy!)

Then I started crocheting the center.

Then I started crocheting the center.

A couple of stitches in, everything was going smoothly, but this is a very stressful procedure...

A couple of stitches in, everything was going smoothly, but this is a very stressful procedure…

Joined, cut off the yarn, and wove the ends in SECURELY.

Joined, cut off the yarn, and wove the ends in SECURELY.

YAAAAAAY, just like new! *cue choir singing*

YAAAAAAY, just like new! *cue choir singing*

I’m so glad this magnificent afghan could be saved – an ENORMOUS thank you to Creative Fidget for posting the tutorial!

See, I knew those hours of browsing Pinterest would come in handy someday. ;)